Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and visitors equally celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive roster of global cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it enters a global network of cities metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "stands as proof of its centuries-old culinary traditions and dynamic culinary scene," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 cities around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this venerable city comes as hardly a shock to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many share the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is now in the global gaze for what has always characterized its heart: an immense passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a continued discussion from morning until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and taken to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, blending Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on countless corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – little-known delights that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a simple joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is precise and demanding. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will inspire more people around the world to explore these narratives and experience the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
